Frigidaire FRS26H5ASB5 Water & Ice Dispenser Issues

1. Introduction: Understanding Your FRS26H5ASB5 Dispenser Problem

Purpose of the Guide: This guide provides step-by-step instructions specifically tailored for troubleshooting water and/or ice dispenser malfunctions on the Frigidaire FRS26H5ASB5 side-by-side refrigerator. It covers common issues and guides users through checks that can be performed before considering professional service. By following these steps, users can often identify and resolve simple problems, restoring dispenser functionality.

Safety First – Unplug the Refrigerator: Before performing any inspection, test, or repair that involves accessing electrical components—such as switches, valves, motors, or control boards—it is imperative to disconnect the refrigerator from its power source. This can be done by unplugging the power cord from the wall outlet or by switching off the corresponding circuit breaker in the household electrical panel. This step is crucial for preventing electrical shock and ensuring personal safety during the troubleshooting process.

Identify Your Specific Issue: To effectively troubleshoot, first pinpoint the exact nature of the dispenser problem. Is the malfunction related to:

Water Dispensing Only: Water does not dispense, or the flow is very slow, but the ice dispenser functions correctly. This suggests the issue likely lies within the water-specific path, such as a frozen water line or the water solenoid on the inlet valve.
Ice Dispensing Only: The ice maker produces ice, but it will not dispense through the door, while the water dispenser works normally. This points towards problems with the ice dispensing mechanism, such as the auger motor, actuator, dispenser door, or ice blockages.
Neither Water Nor Ice Dispensing: Both the water and ice dispensers are non-functional. This often indicates a problem with a shared component, such as the main water supply, the dispenser control lock, a door switch, or potentially a dispenser control board.

Clearly identifying the symptom helps narrow down the potential causes and directs the troubleshooting efforts more efficiently.

2. Initial Checks: Common Culprits for Dispenser Failure

Before diving into more complex diagnostics, several common and easily correctable issues should be checked first. These initial steps address frequent causes of dispenser failure and can often resolve the problem quickly.

Check the Dispenser Control Lock: Many refrigerator models, including Frigidaire units, feature a control lock or dispenser lock function. This is designed to prevent accidental dispensing, particularly by children, or unintended changes to settings. If activated, it will disable the water and ice dispensers entirely.

Locate and Operate: Refer to the Frigidaire FRS26H5ASB5 Owner’s Manual to identify the specific buttons (often a combination held for several seconds) and the visual indicator for the control lock feature on this model’s control panel. Follow the manual’s instructions to deactivate the lock if it is engaged.
Verification: Accidental activation of the control lock is a surprisingly common reason for dispensers appearing non-functional. Because it affects all dispenser operations and is simple to check and disable via the user interface, verifying its status is a crucial first step. This can potentially save considerable time and effort by ruling out a simple setting issue before investigating mechanical or electrical faults.

Verify Water Supply to the Refrigerator: Both the water dispenser and the ice maker rely on a continuous supply of water to the refrigerator itself. Issues with this supply will affect any function requiring water.

Main Shut-off Valve: Locate the dedicated shut-off valve for the water line connected to the refrigerator. This valve is commonly found under the kitchen sink, in the basement below the kitchen, or directly behind the refrigerator. Ensure this valve is turned to the fully open position. If plumbing work was recently performed or the refrigerator was moved, this valve may have been partially or fully closed and not reopened completely.
Supply Line Inspection: Visually inspect the plastic or copper tubing that runs from the shut-off valve to the connection point on the back of the refrigerator. Look for any sharp bends, kinks, or damage that could physically restrict water flow. Gently straighten any kinks found.
Check Household Water Pressure: The refrigerator’s water inlet valve requires a minimum water pressure to operate correctly, typically cited as 20 pounds per square inch (psi). If the overall household water pressure is too low, the valve may not open, preventing water from entering the refrigerator for dispensing or ice making. A quick check of the water flow rate at the kitchen sink faucet can provide an indication of whether household pressure might be insufficient. If flow is weak system-wide, the issue may extend beyond the refrigerator.

Inspect the Water Filter (Model WF2CB): A clogged, incorrectly installed, or missing water filter is one of the most frequent reasons for problems with water dispensing (no flow or slow flow) and can also impact ice production.

Location: On many Frigidaire side-by-side models like the FRS26H5ASB5, the water filter cartridge is located inside the fresh food compartment, typically in the upper-right corner. Consult the FRS26H5ASB5 Owner’s Manual for the precise location and appearance of the filter housing.
Filter Type: This model uses the Frigidaire PureSource 2® WF2CB water filter. Using genuine Frigidaire filters is recommended, as counterfeit or incompatible filters may not fit correctly, filter improperly, or cause leaks or flow issues.
Check Installation/Alignment: The filter must be correctly inserted and rotated to lock securely into the filter housing base (also known as the filter head). If the filter is not fully seated or properly aligned, water may not flow through it, or leaks could occur. Carefully remove the filter by pushing the release button (if applicable) and rotating it counter-clockwise, then reinstall it according to the instructions in the Owner’s Manual, ensuring it locks firmly into place.
Replacement Interval: Water filters have a limited lifespan as they trap contaminants. They should generally be replaced every six months, or after filtering a specific volume of water (e.g., 200-300 gallons), whichever occurs first. An overdue filter can become clogged with sediment and impurities, severely restricting water flow. If the filter hasn’t been changed recently, replacement is a likely solution.
Bypass Plug Test: Some refrigerator models require a bypass plug to be installed in the filter housing if no filter is used, allowing water to flow directly to the dispenser and ice maker. Other models may operate without a filter or bypass. Check the FRS26H5ASB5 Owner’s Manual to determine if a bypass plug is necessary for operation without the WF2CB filter.
- If a bypass plug is not required: Temporarily remove the filter and try operating the water dispenser. If water flows normally, the filter was clogged or defective and needs replacement.
- If a bypass plug is required: You must obtain and install the correct bypass plug to test the dispenser without the filter. Attempting to operate the dispenser without either the filter or the required bypass plug will result in no water flow, potentially leading to a misdiagnosis of other components. This highlights the critical importance of understanding the specific design of the FRS26H5ASB5’s filter system.
Filter Housing Issues: Inspect the plastic filter housing (base) for any cracks, chips, or other visible damage. A damaged housing might leak or prevent the filter from sealing correctly, affecting water flow.

Check the Door Switch(es): Refrigerators use switches to detect when the doors are open or closed. These switches typically control the interior lights and also disable the ice and water dispensers when a door is open as a safety and energy-saving measure.

Location and Function: Locate the door switch(es) for both the refrigerator and freezer compartments. They are usually small plunger-style buttons located in the door frame or along the edge of the cabinet liner, or sometimes magnetic sensors. Press and release the switch(es) manually. Observe if the interior light turns off when the switch is pressed and turns on when released. This confirms basic mechanical operation. The Owner’s Manual may provide exact locations.
Test Dispenser Operation: Ensure the switch plunger moves freely and is not stuck in the depressed (door open) position. While holding the door switch(es) manually pressed (simulating closed doors), try activating the water and ice dispensers. If either dispenser works while the switch is manually held but not when the door is simply closed, it indicates either the switch is faulty, misaligned, or the door itself is not making proper contact to fully depress the switch when closed. Check for obstructions preventing the door from closing completely.
Continuity Check (Advanced): For users comfortable with electrical testing, the door switch can be tested for continuity using a multimeter. With the refrigerator unplugged, the switch should show continuity when the plunger is released (door open position for light) and no continuity when depressed (door closed position for light), or vice-versa depending on its specific function for the dispenser circuit. A faulty switch requires replacement.
Relevance: Since the door switch often acts as a master control for the dispenser system, its failure can prevent both water and ice from dispensing. Therefore, if neither dispenser is working, the door switch becomes a more significant suspect compared to scenarios where only one dispenser function has failed.

3. Troubleshooting: No Water Dispensing (or Slow Flow)

If the initial checks confirm that the control lock is off, water supply is adequate, the filter is new or correctly installed (or bypassed if necessary), and the door switch is functioning, but water still won’t dispense or flows very slowly, the following steps address water-specific issues.

Is the Water Line Frozen? A frozen water line, particularly the section running through the freezer door to the dispenser, is a common cause of water stoppage, especially if the freezer temperature is set very low.

Check Freezer Temperature: Verify the freezer temperature setting. The recommended range is typically 0°F to 10°F (-18°C to -12°C). Setting the freezer significantly colder than 0°F increases the likelihood that the water line passing through or near the freezer compartment will freeze. If the water dispenser stopped working shortly after the freezer temperature was adjusted to a colder setting, a frozen line is highly probable.
Locate Potential Freeze Points: The water supply tube is most vulnerable to freezing where it passes through the freezer door hinge area, as this is often a point of cold air exposure. Another potential location is the water reservoir (or tank), if equipped, which might be located in the fresh food compartment but near the freezer section. Consult the FRS26H5ASB5 Owner’s Manual or service diagrams for the water line path in this specific model.
Diagnosis: A primary diagnostic step involves disconnecting the water tube at the bottom of the freezer door (usually accessible behind the kick plate or at the hinge). Carefully attempt to blow air through the tube towards the dispenser. If air cannot pass through, the line is blocked by ice. Another indicator is if the ice maker continues to produce ice (confirming water supply to the refrigerator), but no water comes from the dispenser.
Safe Thawing Methods: If a frozen line is confirmed, it must be thawed carefully to avoid damaging components.
- Passive Thawing: The safest method is to unplug the refrigerator and leave both the refrigerator and freezer doors open for several hours (potentially 6-8 hours or more) to allow the ice blockage to melt naturally. Place towels near the hinge area to absorb any dripping water.
- Active Thawing (Use Caution): A hairdryer set to its lowest heat setting can be used to gently warm the suspected frozen area, typically the door hinge. Apply heat indirectly and for short intervals, constantly moving the hairdryer to avoid concentrating heat in one spot. Overheating can melt or deform plastic tubing and components. Never use high heat or open flames.
- Once thawed, ensure the freezer temperature is adjusted to the recommended range (0°F to 10°F) to prevent refreezing.

Testing the Water Dispenser Actuator/Lever: The actuator is the physical interface (paddle, lever, or button) pressed by the user to request water. If this component or its associated switch fails, the dispenser will not activate.

Physical Check: Examine the actuator lever for any signs of physical damage, such as cracks or breaks. Ensure it moves freely when pressed and returns to its resting position without sticking.
Listen for Switch Click: Press the actuator firmly and listen carefully for a distinct “click” sound. This sound typically indicates that the actuator is successfully engaging the electrical micro-switch located directly behind it. Lack of a click might suggest the actuator is broken internally, misaligned, or the switch itself has failed.
Inspect Switch (Requires Disassembly): If no click is heard or the actuator feels unresponsive, the micro-switch may be faulty. Accessing this switch usually involves removing the dispenser control panel or facade. This can be complex and risks damaging cosmetic parts. Refer to specific service information or instructional videos if attempting this level of disassembly.
Continuity Check (Advanced): With the refrigerator unplugged and the switch accessed, a multimeter can be used to test the switch for electrical continuity. The switch should show continuity only when the actuator is pressed. A switch that fails this test needs replacement.

Check the Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled valve that opens and closes to allow water from the household supply line into the refrigerator’s systems (dispenser and ice maker).

Location: This valve is usually located on the lower back side of the refrigerator, where the external water supply line connects to the appliance.
Function and Failure Mode: Water inlet valves often contain multiple solenoids – typically one controlling water flow to the dispenser and another controlling flow to the ice maker. It is possible for one solenoid to fail while the other continues to function. Therefore, if the ice maker is working correctly but the water dispenser is not (and other causes like a frozen line or bad filter have been ruled out), the solenoid specifically responsible for the water dispenser path may have failed. This dual-functionality is key for diagnosis: if both systems fail simultaneously, the issue might be the main valve body, water supply, or an upstream component; if only one fails, the valve’s specific solenoid for that function is suspect.
Testing (Advanced): Diagnosing a faulty solenoid requires using a multimeter to test its electrical continuity. With the refrigerator unplugged, the solenoid coil terminals are tested. A reading indicating no continuity (infinite resistance) means the solenoid coil is open and the valve assembly needs replacement. Due to the valve’s location involving both plumbing and electrical connections, replacement is generally recommended to be performed by a qualified service technician.

4. Troubleshooting: No Ice Dispensing

If the water dispenser works but the ice dispenser does not, or if neither works and the initial checks didn’t reveal the cause, focus shifts to the ice dispensing system. Note that if no ice is being produced at all, the problem lies with the ice maker itself or its water supply (refer back to Section 3 troubleshooting for water supply, filter, and valve issues, or Section 5 regarding potential ice maker failure ). This section assumes the ice maker is producing ice, but it’s not reaching the user’s glass.

Is the Ice Maker Turned On? The ice maker unit itself must be enabled to produce ice.

Control Type: Determine how the ice maker in the FRS26H5ASB5 is turned on and off. Common methods include a metal bail arm (a wire lever that lifts when the bin is full) or an electronic switch/button integrated into the control panel or the ice maker module itself. The Owner’s Manual will specify the control type for this model.
Bail Arm Operation: If equipped with a bail arm, it must be in the DOWN (on) position for the ice maker to cycle. If the arm is locked in the UP (off) position, the ice maker will cease production. Check that the arm moves freely and isn’t blocked by ice buildup or an overfilled bin preventing it from lowering.
Electronic Switch/Button: If controlled electronically, verify that the ice maker function is activated on the main refrigerator control panel display.

Inspect the Ice Bin and Auger: The ice storage bin and the auger mechanism within it are critical for dispensing.

Ice Level: First, confirm visually that there is a sufficient quantity of ice stored in the bin. If the bin is empty or nearly empty, the issue is ice production, not dispensing.
Ice Clumps/Jams: Ice cubes can freeze together into large clumps, especially in humid conditions or if the ice isn’t used frequently. These clumps can physically block the auger from rotating or prevent ice from entering the dispenser chute. Additionally, individual cubes or frost can jam the auger mechanism itself or the ice chute path.
- Resolution: Break up any large clumps within the bin. If jamming is severe or suspected in the auger, remove the entire ice bin from the freezer. Empty the contents, allow the bin to thaw completely at room temperature (to melt any hidden frost/ice), wipe it thoroughly dry, and then reinstall it securely in the freezer. Running warm water carefully through the dispenser ice chute (with the bin removed) can also help clear obstructions in that path.
Bin Seating: The ice bin must be pushed all the way back and seated correctly in its designated position. Proper alignment is necessary for the auger motor’s drive shaft to engage with the auger mechanism in the bin. If the bin is slightly out of place, the motor may run, but the auger won’t turn.

Testing the Ice Dispenser Actuator/Lever: Similar to the water dispenser, the ice dispenser has an actuator that triggers the dispensing process.

Physical Check: Ensure the ice dispenser paddle or lever moves freely without sticking and isn’t cracked or broken. The actuator arm connects this external lever to the internal switch and dispensing mechanism; damage here is a common failure point.
Listen for Switch Click: Press the actuator firmly and listen for the corresponding micro-switch click.
Continuity Check (Advanced): The ice dispenser micro-switch can be tested for continuity using a multimeter when the actuator is pressed.

Checking the Ice Chute and Dispenser Door: Even if the auger turns, ice must travel through a chute and past a door to exit the dispenser.

Ice Chute Blockage: Inspect the ice delivery chute visually (often requires removing the ice bin) for any buildup of frost, ice fragments, or foreign objects that could block the path.
Dispenser Door Function: Many dispensers have a small internal flap or door at the end of the chute that opens only when dispensing ice. This door is typically operated by a small motor or solenoid. If this door is frozen shut, broken, or its actuating mechanism fails, ice will be blocked even if the auger is pushing it forward. Inspecting this often requires some disassembly of the dispenser facade.

Understanding Auger Motor Sounds: The sounds produced during ice dispensing can offer diagnostic clues.

Normal Sounds: A distinct whirring or grinding noise is expected when the auger motor is running, especially when dispensing crushed ice, as the motor turns the auger blades to move and break the ice.
Abnormal Sounds:
- Loud clunking, clicking, or repetitive jamming sounds might indicate large ice clumps blocking the auger or a problem with the auger blades/gearbox.
- A motor straining or humming sound with no ice movement could suggest a severe jam or a failing motor struggling under load.
- Complete silence when the actuator is pressed (and the switch click is heard) could mean the motor is not receiving power (possible control board or wiring issue) or the motor itself has completely failed.
Crushed vs. Cubed Solenoid: A key diagnostic point arises if the dispenser works in one mode (e.g., cubed) but not the other (e.g., crushed). This strongly suggests an issue with the crushed/cubed ice solenoid, which controls a diverter flap directing the ice path. Listen for a distinct “clunk” sound when switching between crushed and cubed modes on the control panel. This sound indicates the solenoid is attempting to engage the diverter. Absence of this sound, or failure to dispense one type of ice while the other works, points towards a faulty solenoid or diverter mechanism, rather than the main auger motor.

5. When Professional Repair is Likely Needed

While many common dispenser issues can be resolved through the troubleshooting steps outlined above, certain failures typically require the expertise and tools of a qualified appliance repair technician. Attempting complex repairs without proper knowledge can lead to further damage or safety hazards. Consider calling for professional service if:

Persistent Issues After Basic Checks: All initial checks (control lock, water supply, filter, door switch) and relevant troubleshooting steps (thawing lines, clearing jams, checking actuators) have been performed, but the dispenser still malfunctions.
Suspected Water Inlet Valve Failure: Diagnosis points towards the water inlet valve (e.g., good water pressure, new filter, line not frozen, actuator okay, but still no water, especially if ice maker also affected). Replacement involves working with both plumbing and electrical connections in a confined space at the rear of the refrigerator.
Suspected Auger Motor Failure: Ice is present in a correctly seated bin, the chute is clear, and the actuator/switch functions, but the auger mechanism fails to turn or produces loud, abnormal grinding/straining noises. Replacing the auger motor requires significant disassembly of the ice bin housing and potentially parts of the freezer compartment.
Suspected Crushed/Cubed Solenoid or Dispenser Door Motor Failure: If cubed ice dispenses but crushed does not (or vice versa), and the solenoid “clunk” is absent or ineffective, or if the internal dispenser door fails to open. Accessing these components within the dispenser module is intricate.
Suspected Control Board Issues (Dispenser or Main): If the entire dispenser system is unresponsive (no lights, no water, no ice) despite power being confirmed and basic checks passing, or if multiple dispenser functions fail simultaneously or exhibit erratic behavior. Diagnosing and replacing electronic control boards requires specialized knowledge and handling procedures. Note that control board failures are generally less common causes for dispenser issues compared to mechanical parts, valves, or filters.
Need for Component Testing (Multimeter): If troubleshooting logically leads to needing electrical tests (continuity, voltage) on components like switches, solenoids, valves, or motors, and the user lacks the equipment (multimeter) or the expertise to perform these tests safely and accurately.
Required Disassembly: If resolving the issue necessitates removing dispenser facades, control panels, or internal freezer components to access parts like dispenser switches, the auger motor, or the internal dispenser door mechanism.

The troubleshooting process is structured to address the simplest and most common user-fixable issues first. Problems involving electrical testing, plumbing connections, or significant disassembly generally fall outside the scope of typical DIY repair and warrant professional attention for safety and effectiveness.

Table 5.1: Identifying When to Call for Professional Service for FRS26H5ASB5 Dispenser Issues

Symptom	Likely Cause(s) Requiring Professional Service	Why Professional Service is Recommended
No water (after checking filter, line, lock)	Water Inlet Valve Failure	Requires electrical/plumbing work, multimeter testing for diagnosis.
No ice dispensed (ice present, no blockages)	Auger Motor Failure	Requires significant disassembly, electrical testing, mechanical replacement.
No ice dispensed (cubed works, crushed fails)	Crushed/Cubed Ice Solenoid Failure	Requires accessing internal dispenser mechanism, multimeter testing.
No ice dispensed (no door/chute movement)	Dispenser Door Motor/Solenoid Failure	Requires accessing internal dispenser mechanism, testing.
Neither water nor ice dispenses	Door Switch Failure (if basic check fails)	Requires multimeter testing, potential replacement involving wiring.
Neither water nor ice dispenses	Dispenser Control Board Failure	Complex electronic diagnosis needed, board replacement. (Less common)
Neither water nor ice dispenses	Main Control Board Failure	Complex electronic diagnosis needed, board replacement. (Rare for this symptom)
Any issue requiring multimeter testing	Any component needing electrical test	Safety risk and requires specific tools/knowledge (continuity/voltage checks).
Any issue requiring major disassembly	Accessing internal components	Risk of damaging other parts, complex reassembly (e.g., dispenser module).